Rat and Mouse Trap Bait

Peanut butter and soft cheese are reliable choices, because mice cannot take them without working at the trigger. Seeds, nuts and a little chocolate spread also work. Our guide to the best food baits for mouse traps lists ten options, and the rat equivalent covers larger rodents.

Both work. Food costs little and is easy to vary. A gel is made for the purpose and is designed to not only be highly attractive to rodents but to stay put on the trap instead of drying out or being carried off without triggering the trap.

A pea-sized smear is enough. Too much allows the rodent to feed without triggering the trap.

The gels contain no rodenticide, but keep them out of reach of curious hands and paws. The trap itself is the larger hazard, so place it where a pet or child cannot reach it, or inside a lockable bait station that holds a trap.

Rodents avoid new objects, and rats in particular can take several days to approach. Leave the trap in place, and try pre-baiting with the trap unset for one to three nights. If a trap stays untouched for two or three nights, move it, because placement often matters more than bait. Our guide to why a mouse trap is not working covers further causes.

Yes. A station that holds a snap trap can be baited in the same way, and it adds protection for children, pets and wildlife. Browse our bait stations.

Proofing and trapping come first. Seal entry points with rodent proofing products, set enough traps for the level of activity, and monitor for two weeks. Rodenticide is a later step if activity continues.