Woodworm Control Products

Exit holes can persist for decades, so holes on their own do not mean live beetles. Wipe away all dust, lay paper under the holes, and check again after 7 to 10 days. Fresh pale frass reappearing, and clean light-coloured wood inside the holes, point to active larvae. Grey weathered holes that stay clean need no treatment. Read our guide to telling active woodworm from old damage before buying anything.

The range covers brush-on woodworm treatment fluid for accessible timber, and wood preservative products for bare timber. The product page states which is which. Treatment fluid is what an active infestation needs; a preservative is for protecting sound bare wood you are working on.

Coat every accessible surface of the affected timber, polished and unpolished, including the undersides of floorboards and joists. Where the label permits, inject fluid directly into existing flight holes to reach larvae deeper in the wood. Clear dust, debris and insulation first so the fluid reaches bare timber, and cover wiring, pipes and water tanks. Our guide to treating woodworm yourself sets out the full sequence.

These fluids are insecticidal and usually solvent-based, so use them as directed rather than treating them as harmless. Ventilate the room well, wear gloves and a suitable mask or respirator, and keep children and pets out until surfaces are completely dry. Cover fish tanks, and keep the product away from naked flames and other ignition sources. Always read the label before use.

Two different things look the same here. If dust is appearing under holes you had already marked and wiped, larvae are still active - the fluid most likely did not reach them, which usually means the surfaces were not fully coated, or the timber was dusty or painted when you applied it. Re-treat, and inject the holes where the label allows. If the dust sits under new holes you had not marked, adults have emerged since treatment, which is expected in the weeks after application. Mark the new holes and keep monitoring.

Wipe away all frass and mark each hole with a pencil ring or a dab of paint, so you can tell old holes from new emergence. Then check weekly for four to eight weeks. No fresh dust, no new holes and no live beetles across that period is your all-clear. If dust keeps appearing, the timber is still active, and the damp or ventilation problem feeding it needs dealing with alongside re-treatment.

Some products in the range are labelled by the manufacturer as wood preservatives for bare timber - check the product page for what the label states. Beyond that, the practical prevention is moisture control: wood-boring beetles lay on damp, rough, unpolished timber, so ventilating lofts, cellars and floor voids and fixing leaks does more than any coating. Inspect second-hand furniture for holes and dust before bringing it indoors.

Furniture and small accessible joinery are usually well within DIY reach. Get a survey if structural timbers such as joists, beams or rafters are affected, if the wood feels soft or crumbly, if there is damp or rot alongside the woodworm, or if you suspect Deathwatch or House Longhorn beetle, which need deeper treatment and inspection. Look for a timber specialist with Property Care Association (PCA) membership.