Expert Guide on How to Get Rid of Rats Yourself

Discovering rats in your home or workplace can be a distressing experience. When they invade, these unwelcome pests don't just cause alarm — they can spread disease and damage your property. With rats able to breed prolifically, producing between 15 and 100 offspring per year, if you notice any signs of rats it's crucial to act quickly before things get out of hand.

Although some third-party services like pest control companies and your local authority may provide rat control, they often charge high fees. Getting rid of rats yourself may seem daunting, but with the right products and some sound advice from our team at PestBuddy.co.uk, you can address your rat situation yourself, quickly and cost-effectively.

This expert guide on how to get rid of rats yourself covers everything you need — from understanding rat behaviour, to spotting the signs of an infestation, to choosing the right DIY rat control products to use straight away.

One thing worth saying up front, from our own order patterns: rat enquiries run all year but climb from October to March, as the colder months push rats to seek warmth, food and shelter indoors and in gardens. And in our experience the people who struggle most aren't using the wrong products — they're not following a proper strategy. A trap or two put down hopefully, or poison thrown down first, rarely works on an animal as wary as a rat. The plan below is that strategy, in the order that actually works.

How to Get Rid of Rats Yourself - The 7-Step Plan

If you want results quickly, follow these steps in order. We prioritise confirmation, proofing and trapping first - then only consider rodenticides if you can do it safely and legally.

Step 1: Confirm active rat activity

Look for fresh droppings (often 1-2cm), greasy rub marks along walls, gnawing, and runs in dusty areas. If you're seeing new signs daily, treat it as active.

Step 2: Protect your household first

Keep kids and pets away from suspect areas. If you've got droppings/urine/nesting, do a safe clean-up before you start moving clutter.

Step 3: Remove food and nesting materials

Move all food (including pet food and bird seed) into sealed containers. Deep-clean crumbs/grease, pull bins away from walls, and clear cardboard/paper piles.

Step 4: Proof entry points (including drains)

Seal gaps around pipes, air bricks, cables, and under doors using rodent-proof materials (mesh/wire wool + filler/cement - not expanding foam alone). Check broken air brick covers, damaged vents, and drain defects (rats commonly exploit these).

Step 5: Place traps correctly (more than you think you need)

Put rat traps tight to walls and in "pinch points" (behind appliances, along skirting lines, loft edges). Indoors, start at ~3–5m spacing along walls/rat travel routes, then tighten to ~1–2m in hotspots with fresh signs. Outdoors, place them at ~10m intervals. Use bait stations wherever there's any risk to children/pets, and bait traps with an appropriate lure such as our non-toxic attractant.

Step 6: Consider rodenticides only if needed (and use safely)

Be careful when considering rodenticides. Only use rodenticides intended for rats, always in tamper-resistant bait stations, and follow the label exactly. If you can't place and monitor bait safely, stick to traps and proofing.

Step 7: Monitor, reset and prevent a comeback

Re-check daily at first. Keep a simple note of where you found signs and what changed. Once activity drops, keep proofing and hygiene tight for 2-3 weeks to confirm they're gone.

Are Rats Dangerous?

Rats present a significant threat to human health and property. The following are some of the most significant risks posed by rats:

Disease Transmission

Rats can carry and spread several infections, mostly through their urine and droppings. The one to take seriously in the UK is leptospirosis (Weil's disease), which is spread through rat urine and can be serious if left untreated — it's the main reason to avoid contact with rat urine and to clean up carefully. Rats can also spread salmonella, and they carry fleas, ticks and mites. The risk is highest where droppings and urine build up, which is why prompt, safe clean-up matters.

Allergic Reactions and Respiratory Issues

As with mice, the dander, urine and droppings of rats can trigger allergic reactions and worsen conditions like asthma. The allergens present can lead to respiratory distress, making it important to address rat infestations promptly.

Food Contamination

Rats are opportunistic feeders and will readily contaminate food sources within homes and businesses. Their feeding habits not only lead to the direct loss of food but also pose a risk of foodborne illnesses such as food poisoning if contaminated food is unknowingly consumed.

Electrical and Structural Damage

Rats are destructive little creatures. They gnaw through wooden doors, window frames or the struts in your roof. They gnaw the rubber casing around electrical cables and have been known to make holes in the rubber parts of car engines. This is all done stealthily, while you are away from home or fast asleep, and often it is not discovered until something stops working or you find a small heap of unexplained wood shavings.

Types of Rats

Many estimates put the UK rat population at over 100 million, which is significantly higher than the human population.

There are only two species of rats found in Britain, namely the brown rat (rattus norvegicus), and the black rat (rattus rattus).

Brown Rats

Brown rats, also known as common rats or Norwegian rats, are by far the most common type of rat in the UK. They are greyish-brown in colour and have a slanted head with a blunt nose, small hair-covered ears, and a hairless tail that is shorter than their body length.

They are the largest species of rats in the UK with sturdy bodies, sometimes weighing over half a kilo and measuring 20-25cm (without the tail). They largely live outdoors but like to exploit places that provide food, shelter and water such as sewers, gardens and houses. Brown rats are skilled climbers and swimmers and gain access through gaps in walls and drainage defects. They are not averse to crawling through sewers to get to your house.

Brown rats are social creatures and live in colonies with a strong hierarchical social system.

Black Rats

Black rats are not as common anymore and are found mainly in coastal towns where they frequent dock areas. They are black to light brown in colour with a lighter underside, have a pointed nose, large hairless ears, and a thin tail that is longer than their body.

They are the smaller and lighter of the two UK species, with lean bodies measuring around 15cm (without the tail). They are very agile and quite often make themselves at home in roofs and attics, so they can be more challenging to detect and manage.

Rat Behaviour

Why Do Rats Enter Our Homes?

Rats are driven by similar basic needs as mice, seeking out warmth, shelter, and food, which often leads them into our homes, particularly as the weather turns colder — the reason rat problems peak between October and March. Their ability to contort and squeeze through small spaces, sometimes as narrow as 15mm, allows them access through various entry points. Common access routes for rats include breaches in building exteriors, such as foundation cracks, gaps around doors and windows, openings in roofs or basements, and — unlike mice — defective drains.

Where Do Rats Live Inside Our Homes?

Upon gaining entry, rats establish their nests in secluded areas that offer proximity to food sources and protection from predators. They are adept at creating nests from shredded materials found within the home, favouring locations such as wall voids, attic spaces, under floors, within cluttered rooms or garages, behind or beneath appliances, and inside furniture cavities. Rats are nocturnal creatures, spending the day hidden within these nests and emerging at night to forage.

What Do Rats Eat?

Rats are not picky eaters and will consume a wide range of foods, making them omnivorous opportunists. In their natural habitats, their diet can include seeds, grains, nuts, fruits, insects, and even small animals. However, once inside human dwellings, they will eat almost anything available, from kitchen scraps and pantry goods to pet food and rubbish waste. Rats typically find the moisture they need from their food but will seek out water sources if their diet is particularly dry.

Rats have a particular preference for high-nutrient foods, such as meats, nuts, and grains, but will not hesitate to consume whatever they come across, often leading to the contamination of food supplies.

Why Do Rats Gnaw So Much?

Rats gnaw incessantly to keep their continuously growing incisors at a manageable length. This compulsive behaviour leads to them chewing on a variety of non-food items, including but not limited to wood, plastic, paper, cloth, and even electrical wiring. Failure to gnaw would result in their teeth growing to the point where they could no longer feed effectively.

How Long Do Rats Live For?

The lifespan of a rat varies by species and environmental conditions. Wild rats typically live around one to two years due to predation and challenging living conditions, but in sheltered environments like homes, they can survive up to three years. Factors such as ample food, lack of predators, and warm nesting sites can significantly extend their lifespan. Despite their relatively short life cycle, rats' prolific breeding habits ensure their populations remain robust over time.

How Quickly Do Rats Breed?

Rats are known for their high fertility and rapid reproduction rates. A female rat reaches sexual maturity within a few weeks of birth and can produce multiple litters each year, each containing up to 12 pups after a gestation period of about 21-24 days. This rapid breeding cycle can quickly escalate a minor rat presence into a severe infestation if not promptly and effectively addressed.

Identifying Signs of a Rat Infestation

Because rats are nocturnal creatures, they are not always visible, and it may take weeks to realise that you have a rat problem.

Rat Droppings

Rat infestations are noticeable when you begin to see droppings in your home. Droppings are black and very similar in shape and size to a raisin. You may also notice the unpleasant smell of rat urine.

Gnawing Marks

You may notice signs of gnawing as they search for food and nesting material. Rats like to make their nests out of shredded cardboard, fabric, foam rubber, and anything else that is soft enough. They also have a need to gnaw in order to keep their front incisors worn down, so they chew wood and plastic and will even resort to chewing the insulation around electric cables.

Scratching and Scurrying Noises

Rats make scratching and scurrying noises, particularly at night. If you hear squeaking and squealing, it may mean that they already have a nest of babies, and it's time to act. Similarly, you may also hear them grinding their teeth and chattering when nervous.

Footprints and Marks

Look out for footprints and tail marks, especially in dusty and less clean areas. Rats have poor eyesight, and as a result, will run alongside your skirting boards when making their way around the house. If you notice dirty marks along the skirting board or nearby, it could also be an indication of rats. However, it may be an old mark, as their fur is oily and the mark is not likely to rub off easily, so there is no guarantee they will still be around.

If you are unsure whether you are facing a mouse or rat infestation, you may find this article useful.

Safe Clean-up: Rat Droppings, Urine and Nesting (don't vacuum)

Government guidance is clear: do not sweep or vacuum rat droppings, urine, or nesting materials — it can put infectious material into the air.

What to do instead (quick steps):

1. Ventilate the room (open windows for ~30 minutes if possible).
2. Wear rubber gloves; consider a dust mask (FFP1/FFP2) if you're in a dusty/poorly ventilated space.
3. Lightly spray/soak droppings and nesting with disinfectant (follow the product label) and leave a few minutes.
4. Pick up with damp paper towel, then double-bag and bin.
5. Disinfect surfaces, then wash hands thoroughly.
6. Stop and consider professional help if contamination is heavy (loft insulation, lots of nesting, strong odour, or widespread droppings).

Preventing Rats in Your House

Once you have identified a rat infestation, or if you aim to prevent one in the future, it's crucial to ensure that your home is rat-proof. Identify their entry points, maintain cleanliness, and manage your outdoor space effectively. Such actions will prevent new rats from getting into your home.

Identify and Seal Entry Points

To begin with, find and seal cracks and holes around the exterior of your house. Wide cracks can be sealed using expandable foam backed with wire wool or mesh, and open pipes and gutters can be blocked off using steel mesh. Check and fix broken roof shingles. Check beneath the windowsills and eaves. Remove branches that are close to or touching the roof. Add door sweeps to the gaps beneath the outside doors. Do regular checks to make sure that these remedies are still in place.

Maintain Cleanliness

In built-up areas, rat infestations are more prevalent due to the availability of food in homes and in dustbins, for example. Make sure food is properly stored, preferably in glass or metal containers, and that waste bins are tightly closed. Pet food that hasn't been eaten needs to be stored or disposed of. Rats like clutter, so keep your home tidy and close all cupboard doors.

Manage Outdoor Space

Keep your garden clean too: rats love compost heaps, so a tip is to keep it free of kitchen waste, such as vegetable peels, and water the compost regularly to make it uncomfortable for a family of rats to move in. They will nest in a stack of wood piled up in a corner or make holes beneath sheds and wooden decks. The less garden debris you have lying around, the easier it will be to monitor for rat infestations.

Rats are driven by food. They will live in your garden if there is a regular supply of birdseed or dog food available. They love a well-stocked vegetable garden, so you may need to secure your veggies with wire mesh to keep them out.

Remove woodpiles, building rubble, and other unnecessary heaps that may be lying around your garden. Keep lawns short and trim large shrubs regularly.

Rat Control: Catching Rats with Traps

Let's take a look at the various options for trapping and removing rats in your home or workplace. We shall cover the different types of rat traps, when you might want to use them, and some tips on how to effectively catch rats.

It's important to note that rats are neophobic. This means that they tend to avoid new foreign objects that make a sudden appearance, so it may take some time for them to get used to the trap you have set. You sometimes need patience and persistence to place it in the ideal location — and pre-baiting (below) makes a real difference.

Different Types of Rat Traps

Rat Snap Traps

Rat snap traps are what many people think of when they hear the term rat trap. They involve leaving food bait in a snap trap close to where rats are known to roam. When the rat bait is taken, the snap bar is activated. The bar is attached to a strong spring that, when released, has the power to crush the rat, usually breaking its neck or back. This is quick and usually lethal.

Well-built traps that work properly are very effective at killing the rats quickly and therefore can be considered humane, however, some cheaper traps are less effective so you must pick carefully.

Rat snap traps are simple-to-use, non-toxic and cost-effective rat trap solutions. They also have the advantage of being reusable, however many people prefer to throw them out with the rat, creating waste.

The main drawback of using snap traps is the risk of injury when you set them up, especially for pets or young children. To counteract this, you may wish to consider using a lockable rat bait station that has space to accommodate a snap trap.

Live Rat Traps

Live rat traps including cages are ideal for people who are seeking a non-lethal solution to remove brown rats. Similar to other traps, live rat traps use food baits to entice rats, triggering a door to snap shut and locking the rat inside. After capture, the rat can be released into the wild again, usually 2-3 miles away to stop them from returning.

The key advantages of live rat traps are that they do not kill the rat, and often mean you can remove it without direct contact or visibility. They are also preferred choices around young children and pets.

The main disadvantage of live rat traps is that you can typically only catch one rat at a time. Given the required time commitment to release rats, this makes them less effective during widespread infestations. You will also need to check the trap regularly, as rats can die if left too long. It is illegal to use live rat traps to capture and release the rarer black rat without a licence.

Electronic Rat Traps

Electronic rat traps are humane traps that kill rats in seconds by delivering a high-voltage electric shock. Similar to other rat traps, electronic rat stations require a bait to entice rats who activate an electric circuit when they step on the plate.

They have the advantage of being very user-friendly as you'll need to place the bait inside and in some cases plug it into the mains. The other advantage is that many zapper stations do not require you to see or touch the dead rat once it has been caught as it happens in an easily removable kill chamber.

The main disadvantage of rat zapper stations is that they are rather expensive compared to non-electrical methods such as snap traps.

Glue Rat Traps

Glue traps consist of a board with an adhesive surface. A rat that walks onto one becomes stuck and dies slowly — it's the least humane option. Across England, Wales and Scotland it's now an offence for the general public to use rodent glue traps, with use restricted to licensed professionals in exceptional circumstances. GOV.UK guidance is clear that you shouldn't use them. Choose humane alternatives such as snap traps, live-capture traps, or electronic traps.

Best Practices for Setting Up Rat Traps

• Wear gloves throughout as rats can detect your scent on traps you've handled and food you've prepared, and may stay away as a result.
• The right bait can make all the difference. Rats are omnivores and love everything from seeds and nuts to meat and fish and even sweets. You can also try our rat attractant and bait.
• A pea-sized amount of bait is ideal for snap traps, and any more might allow the rat to steal some without setting off the trap.
• Place traps along walls or near potential entry points, since rats usually scurry along edges rather than dart across open space.
• Place traps at right angles to the wall so they can be triggered from both directions.
• Set traps in areas where there have been signs of rat activity: ~1–2m in hotspots, ~3–5m along walls/rat travel routes, and ~10m outdoors.
• Because rats are neophobic, pre-baiting pays off more than with almost any other pest: leave traps baited but unset for several days, until the rats are feeding confidently, then set them. Skipping this is one of the biggest reasons DIY rat trapping fails.
• Set up as many rat traps as possible once you do set them, as rats become more aware of traps over time and may start to avoid them.
• Remember, safety is key – keep traps out of reach of pets and children. To this extent, you may wish to consider using a lockable bait station that has space to accommodate a snap trap.

How to Dispose of Trapped Rats

The first and most important rule is never to touch a rat with your bare hands. Always use gloves, preferably the disposable type, unless the rat is still alive and likely to bite you, in which case a pair of welding gloves may be safer.

Pick up dead rats with tongs or a shovel, and, still wearing your gloves, place the rat in a plastic bag, seal it, place it in a second bag, and throw it in the bin.

Disinfect all surfaces that may have been contaminated by swabbing them with a strong disinfectant. Remember that rat urine can get into the smallest of spaces. Throw away or disinfect the traps before storing them for further use.

Ultrasonic Rat Repellers — Where They Fit

Ultrasonic repellers emit a high-pitched sound that's inaudible to people and meant to make an area uncomfortable for rats. They're sold widely — and they're one of the products we most often see customers pin their hopes on, buying one and expecting it to clear the problem on its own. It won't.

The honest position: the evidence that ultrasonic devices clear an established rat problem is weak, and rats tend to get used to the sound and carry on regardless once there's food and shelter on offer. Walls and furniture also block the sound. Treat one as a supplementary layer at most — never a substitute for the strategy above. The things that genuinely work on rats are physical: proofing every entry point (drains included), removing food, and persistent trapping.

Using Chemical Rat Solutions

Chemical solutions for rats include rodenticides which are poisons that are specifically made to kill rats; however, they may also kill other mammals such as squirrels. They usually take the form of bait and are flavoured with substances like fish oil and peanut butter. The most important thing is to keep them out of the reach of children and pets.

Rodenticides have different effects on rats, depending on the ingredients. Some are anticoagulants that prohibit the recycling or production of vitamin K in their bodies, preventing the clotting of blood and eventually causing internal haemorrhaging and death.

Various rodenticides that are not anticoagulants affect rodents in different ways, causing either paralysis, a breakdown of the central nervous system, or restriction of the natural functioning of the body. Examples of these ingredients are bromethalin, cholecalciferol, zinc phosphide, and strychnine.

There are times when rodenticides or chemical repellents might become the most effective solution:

• When rat populations are widespread or escalating quickly, and proving difficult to control
• If rats have become savvy to traditional traps or avoidance measures.
• In environments where food sources are abundant and difficult to control.
• To prevent the spread of disease in high-risk areas, such as food storage facilities.

Safety Considerations When Using Chemicals

When considering how to get rid of rats, several methods, including traps and natural deterrents should be considered first. Using chemicals such as rodenticides is not a choice to be made lightly as they can pose significant risks to people, pets and the environment. All rodenticides are toxic when eaten, and some are toxic when inhaled or when they come into contact with the skin. Here are some essential safety tips you must follow:

Read and Follow the Instructions

Manufacturer guidelines are there for a reason, to ensure your safety and the effectiveness of the product. Follow them to the letter, and only use amateur-grade rodenticides.

Wear Protective Gear

Gloves, masks, and even eye protection are important when handling chemicals.

Safe Placement

Ensure chemicals are placed in areas inaccessible to children and pets (e.g. using tamper-resistant bait stations).

Monitor Regularly

Check bait stations frequently for signs of activity and to discard deceased rodents properly.

Know the Risks

Be aware that dead rats can also pose health risks; they may carry the poison in their bodies, presenting secondary poisoning risks to predators such as owls, foxes and pets.

How to Get Rid of Rats in the Garden

A common question we receive is how to get rid of rats in the garden. This is because, as well as in homes, rats can cause a lot of problems in your outdoor spaces too.

When you find signs of a nest outdoors, block and seal it off using steel wool secured with silicone or spray foam. Patch larger holes with sheet metal, and seal off holes in garages and outdoor sheds. Install metal pipe guards around gutters and pipes to prevent rats from climbing onto the roof or into windows.

For smaller infestations, rat traps can be set in the same way you would set them in your home, taking care to keep them out of reach of children and pets.

Some burrow fumigation products exist, but they're high-risk and often restricted to professional use. For most households, the safer approach is: remove food sources, proof access (decking/sheds/compost), and use traps in secure stations. If you suspect a large burrow system, get professional help.

How to Know When the Rats Are Gone

Use this simple checklist before you stand down:

• No fresh droppings for 10–14 days in previously active spots
• No new gnawing or smear marks
• Traps stop triggering (or bait stops being taken)
• Night-time scratching/scuttling noises stop

Top tip: keep 1–2 monitoring points (a non-toxic bait in a station, or a trap that's set but baited lightly) for another week. Rats can reappear if proofing isn't complete.

Regular Monitoring After Rat Control

Eliminating rats does not always mean the risk has gone. Ongoing monitoring helps confirm the infestation is resolved and provides early warning if rats return.

Why Monitoring Matters

Rats can migrate from neighbouring properties, gardens, or drainage systems. Even small gaps or defects can allow re-entry if monitoring stops too soon.

How to Monitor Effectively

• Keep 1–2 traps or non-toxic monitoring points in known rat routes as sentinel monitors
• Check weekly for fresh droppings, gnawing, smear marks, or disturbed traps
• Pay extra attention after heavy rain, cold weather, or building works
• Re-check external areas, bin stores, sheds, and drains periodically

Homes vs Businesses

Homes: a quick weekly visual check and one or two monitoring points is usually sufficient once activity has stopped.

Businesses and rental properties: routine monitoring supports legal duties and demonstrates ongoing control, especially where food storage, waste, or shared drainage is involved.

If monitoring reveals new activity, act immediately by increasing traps and re-checking proofing and drainage access points.

When to Use Professional Pest Control Services for Rats

You have tried setting traps without success. The rats aren't even taking the poison you have left lying around, and yet they are still breaking into your kitchen at night and leaving their unwelcome signs behind.

It's time to call in the experts. If a rat infestation is out of control, it is not going to be easy to get rid of them, particularly as their breeding pattern is quite robust. A qualified pest controller can be found through the British Pest Control Association.

You may just want a professional opinion on where the rats are hiding and the extent of the problem. Alternatively, rat exterminators can set traps or use whatever methods of pest control they think are best in your situation and then advise you on how to maintain a rat-free environment.

Legal Considerations for Rats in the UK

There are laws in the UK such as the Prevention of Damage by Pests Act and Food Safety Act that require business owners and property owners including landlords to keep premises rodent-free. This includes addressing pest infestations promptly and reporting infestations to the local authority if they pose a threat to health or property. Landlords have a duty of care to their tenants and must ensure that the property is safe and habitable.

FAQs: Getting Rid of Rats

Will getting a cat get rid of rats?

Even less reliably than with mice. Many cats won't take on a full-grown rat, and rats nest in drains, wall voids and outdoor burrows a cat simply can't reach. A cat is no substitute for proofing and trapping, which are what actually clear a rat problem.

Why am I seeing rats during the day?

Rats are nocturnal, so daytime sightings usually mean either a larger infestation — enough competition for food that some forage in daylight — or a disturbed nest. Treat a daytime rat as a sign to step up trapping and look harder for entry points and harbourage.

How are rats getting into my house?

Often through defects people overlook — broken or unsealed drains, damaged air bricks, gaps under doors, and holes as small as around 15mm. Rats climb and swim well, so check the roofline and drainage, not just ground level. Proofing the drains is the step that catches most people out.

What attracts rats to a garden?

Food and shelter: spilled bird seed, pet food, open compost with kitchen waste, accessible bins, and woodpiles or clutter to nest under. Remove the food and the harbourage and most rats will move on.

Do ultrasonic repellers actually work on rats?

Not reliably, and not on their own — it's the mistake we see most often. The evidence is weak and rats habituate to the sound. Use one only as a supplement to the real work: proofing, removing food and trapping.

What's the best bait for a rat trap?

Rats are omnivores, so peanut butter, chocolate, and meat or fish all work well. Use only a pea-sized amount so the rat can't steal it without triggering the trap — and because rats are wary of new objects, pre-bait the trap unset for a few days first.

Final Thoughts

We recommend that you try to deal with rats in your home and garden safely and humanely wherever possible. It depends on the extent of the problem and where the rats are situated as to which method is most effective. Smaller infestations may need only a few well-placed traps, while larger ones can require chemical baits used safely in tamper-resistant stations — but in every case, the difference between success and frustration is following a proper strategy rather than reaching for a single quick fix.

Always exercise caution when handling rats and equipment, making sure that you, your family, and any other animals in the environment are not at risk.

Once you have eliminated your rat problem, do regular maintenance around your home to make sure there are no cracks, drain defects or potential nesting sites, and stay vigilant.

We go to great lengths to ensure that our DIY rat control products are effective, fast and easy-to-use. Explore our range of products to take control of your rat problems with confidence.