Woodworms can be a serious problem in homes, causing significant damage to furniture and structural timbers.
But here's the first thing worth knowing, because it saves a lot of people needless worry: not all woodworm needs treating. A great deal of what people find – especially those old, clean exit holes discovered when lifting a carpet, or flagged in a house-purchase survey – is old and inactive, made by beetles that are long gone. So the priority is always to work out whether the infestation is active before you reach for any treatment.
This guide will help you understand woodworm, tell active from inactive, recognise the signs, and treat it effectively – as well as knowing when a job is better left to a specialist.
📋 Quick answer: how to get rid of woodworm
- Confirm it's active first: look for fresh, fine dust (frass) under holes and new, pale wood inside them. Much of the woodworm people find is old and inactive and needs no treatment. Activity is most noticeable in the warmer months when adults emerge.
- Decide furniture vs structure: small furniture infestations can often be treated DIY; structural timbers usually need specialist assessment.
- Treat correctly: apply a woodworm treatment fluid to all accessible surfaces of affected timber; some products also allow injection into holes.
- Fix the cause: keep timber dry and well ventilated to reduce the risk of reinfestation.
- Monitor: mark the holes, then check weekly for new dust or holes (see the monitoring box below).
What is Woodworm?
Woodworm is the common name given to the grub (or larvae) of the Common Furniture Beetle (Anobium punctatum). It's also used to refer to other similar wood-boring insects. These grubs are destructive because after hatching on a wooden surface, they burrow through it, creating tiny tunnels and eventually noticeable holes when they re-emerge as adult beetles.
Woodworm Behaviour
The adult Common Furniture Beetle is a small, brown insect measuring between 3mm and 6mm in length. You're most likely to notice adult beetles from May to September, when they emerge and leave behind their characteristic round holes. That said, people often spot the holes at any time of year – sometimes long after the beetles have gone, which is another reason to check whether the woodworm is active before treating.
The adult beetles prefer to lay their eggs on rough, unpolished wood surfaces, including wooden furniture, structural timbers and floorboards. The grub, which is typically white or creamy, bores into the wood soon after hatching. This makes it difficult to detect until the beetles emerge around three years later as adults.

Woodworm infestations often start through second-hand furniture, tea chests or wickerwork, which can all harbour woodworm. Adult beetles can also fly in from nearby areas, including dead tree branches and neighbouring homes. Once indoors, they can infest floorboards, joists, furniture and even structural timbers like rafters.
Identifying Woodworm Infestations (and Whether It's Active)
Recognising woodworm as early as possible is critical for minimising damage. But the key question isn't just "are there holes?" – it's "is it active?" Here's what to look for.
Neat round holes
Look for small, neat, round holes in wooden furniture, floorboards and other wooden surfaces, typically about 2mm in diameter. Underneath, you might see tiny piles of fine wood dust known as frass (pale, powdery waste left by woodworm). Fresh frass is a strong sign of recent activity.

Fresh wood exposure
Newly formed holes reveal fresh, clean, pale wood inside, which indicates active wood-boring activity.
Active or inactive?
This is the part most people get wrong. Fresh, pale frass that reappears after you wipe it away, and clean light-coloured wood inside the holes, point to active woodworm. Old holes that stay clean and dust-free over several weeks – often darkened inside – are usually a past infestation that has already died out and may need no treatment at all. Wiping surfaces clean, then checking over a few weeks, is the simplest way to tell.
Adult beetle sightings
Though rare, you may spot small brown beetles near infested wood, most commonly between May and September.
Preventing Woodworm
It's perfectly possible to reduce the risk of woodworm yourself. It starts with monitoring your home's wooden materials and keeping them well-protected and dry. Here are several steps we recommend.
Inspect furniture regularly
Before bringing second-hand furniture or any wooden items into your home, inspect them carefully for signs of woodworm, including neat round holes from around 2mm in width and wood dust.
Ventilate and control moisture
Woodworm thrives in moist, damp environments, so keep your home well-ventilated and free from excess moisture. Regularly check that wooden structures are dry, and avoid conditions that promote humidity and speed up wood decay.
Regular maintenance
Regularly polishing wooden furniture with an insecticidal polish can help deter reinfestation and treat surface holes. Bear in mind that a surface polish won't reliably reach grubs deep inside the timber – for an active infestation you'll need a proper woodworm treatment fluid.
DIY Woodworm Control Methods
If you discover an active infestation in furniture or smaller wooden items, you can attempt treating woodworm yourself. In our experience, most of the woodworm our customers deal with is exactly this – furniture and smaller timber, which is well within DIY reach.
Woodworm killer treatment
Specialised woodworm killer treatments are available – we stock a brush-on woodworm treatment fluid designed for this. Apply the solution to all surfaces, both polished and unpolished. Some treatments also let you inject fluid directly into existing holes using an injector, targeting grubs still inside the wood.
⚠️ Safety when using woodworm treatment fluids
These are insecticidal and often solvent-based. Wear gloves and a suitable mask or respirator, ventilate the area well, and keep children and pets away until surfaces are fully dry. Cover fish tanks, and keep the product away from naked flames and other ignition sources. Always read and follow the product label.
Treating structural timbers
For woodworm in structural timbers such as floor joists or roof beams, careful DIY treatment may be possible, but take your time and follow these steps.
1. Clean the timbers. Remove any dust, debris or insulation from the affected areas so the treatment can work effectively.
2. Cover electrical and water installations. Protect electric cables and water tanks from the treatment fluid.
3. Coat and apply woodworm fluid. Cover all surfaces thoroughly, including the undersides of floorboards and joists, following the product's instructions closely.
4. Reinstall insulation carefully. Once treatment is complete, reinstall any roof or floor insulation carefully to prevent fire hazards.
When to Use Professional Help
DIY treatment is great for smaller infestations, but woodworm in structural elements poses a greater risk. In these instances, such as structural timbers, we often recommend consulting professionals.
Consider professional help if:
- You suspect structural timbers (joists, beams, rafters) are affected
- The timber feels soft or crumbly, or you're also dealing with damp or rot
- You suspect Deathwatch beetle or House Longhorn (these tend to require deeper treatment and inspection)
- Activity persists after careful treatment and moisture control
Woodworm treatment specialists offer detailed surveys and effective solutions for structural timbers. We recommend choosing specialists who are members of the Property Care Association (the relevant trade body for timber and damp), many of whom provide long-term guarantees – valuable if you plan to sell your property in the future.
Other Wood-Boring Insects
Besides the Common Furniture Beetle, other wood-boring insects can damage wooden furniture and parts of your home.
Deathwatch beetle
Targets large, old hardwood beams, often found in historic buildings.
House Longhorn beetle
Primarily found in North West Surrey, its larvae can cause severe damage to softwood timbers.
Powderpost beetle
Requires specific hardwoods containing starch, and is typically found in wooden objects such as antique furniture.
Wood-boring weevils
Associated with wet rot, these insects often die out once the wet rot issue is addressed.
📋 Track your progress
Wipe away all existing frass and mark the holes (a pencil ring or a small dab of paint) so you can tell old holes from any new emergence. Then check weekly for 4–8 weeks. Success looks like no fresh frass, no new holes, and no new adult beetles over that period. If fresh dust keeps appearing, the timber is still active – re-treat and deal with any damp or ventilation issue feeding it.
Woodworm FAQs
How do I know if woodworm is active or old?
Active woodworm usually leaves fresh frass (clean, pale wood dust) under holes or on surfaces, with holes that look newly cut and lighter wood inside. Old holes are often clean with no new dust appearing over several weeks. In our experience, a lot of the woodworm people worry about is actually old and inactive.
What does woodworm frass look like?
Frass looks like fine, powdery wood dust, sometimes in tiny piles. If you wipe it away and it reappears, that's a strong sign there's still activity.
Can woodworm go away on its own?
It can die out if the timber becomes too dry and conditions aren't suitable, but don't rely on that – especially if you're seeing fresh dust or new holes. The safest approach is to treat the timber and fix the moisture or ventilation issue.
What's the best time of year to treat woodworm?
You can treat any time you have access to the timber. Activity is often more noticeable in the warmer months when adult beetles emerge, but people spot holes throughout the year – sometimes well after emergence. If you're seeing fresh frass, don't wait: treat and monitor.
Will woodworm spread to other rooms or furniture?
Yes – adult beetles can emerge and lay eggs in nearby timber, especially where there are untreated, damp or vulnerable timbers. Treat affected areas promptly and reduce damp or condensation to lower the risk.
Do DIY "home remedies" (vinegar, bleach, WD-40) work on woodworm?
In our experience, they're not an effective way to treat woodworm. They may clean the surface, but they won't properly penetrate the timber to reach the larvae. Use a woodworm treatment designed for timber, applied as directed.
Can I treat woodworm myself, or do I need a professional?
DIY is usually realistic for small, accessible areas (like furniture) where you can fully coat the timber. Get professional advice if you suspect structural beams, joists or rafters, the timber feels soft or crumbly, or activity continues after a proper treatment cycle.
How long does it take to know if treatment has worked?
You should see improvement as fresh frass stops appearing. Check weekly for 4–8 weeks. Success looks like no new dust, no new holes, and no new adult sightings over that period.
Final Thoughts
Woodworm can be managed effectively with prompt identification and the right treatment. Regular inspection, maintaining dry conditions, and using preventive polishes all reduce the risk – but the single most useful habit is checking whether an infestation is active before you treat, because a lot of what people find is old and already dead.
For minor, active cases, a DIY woodworm treatment fluid can be very effective. However, when an infestation involves structural timbers or is widespread, it's best to consult a professional so the issue is handled correctly and safely. By staying vigilant for signs of active woodworm, you can protect your property and the integrity of your wooden furnishings and structures.
At PestBuddy, we stock an effective, easy-to-use DIY woodworm treatment fluid. Explore our range to take control of your woodworm problem with confidence.